I also needed a better charging/cranking battery, but don't need a dedicated electronics one (I don't think so anyhow) because I don't fish long enough (hours) for it to make a difference in terms of electronics and trollers dying. 😢
Batteries, chargers, wiring
1. We don't need lithium batteries
Some pros – who fish a whale load more than the rest of us – don't even run lithiums and others might not run 'em if they didn't get 'em for free. That said, one guy with a big-time electronics setup told me he had all kinds of electronics problems that went away when he replaced every battery in his boat with lithiums.
AGMs are good – better than lead-acid and cheaper than lithiums.
Lithium and AGM battery maintenance (like over the winter) is different than for lead-acid.
2. All lithiums are not the same
Research 'em. Look at what pros are running – which batteries with what electronics. Ask buds, installers and even the electronics manufacturers themselves what lithiums play nice with their stuff and/or which ones to avoid using. The manufacturers will know and should want to help you so they don't get calls saying their units don't work right.
I got X2 lithiums because they place nice with Minn Kota/Bird and I got a heck of a deal on 'em.
3. Get the right charger for your setup
Lead-acid chargers aren't gonna do it for different kinds of batteries.
If you want a faster charge (like overnight), get a charger with more amps. Ask your battery manufacturer(s) what charger they recommend.
I got the 4-bank, 10-amp Minn Kota Precision Digital Charger. If I needed a dedicated electronics battery, I would need the 5-bank since I am running 3 12v batteries for the troller.
Note: Any battery that is more than 12v requires a special charger.
4. Make sure you have the right wiring and wires
Don't just connect your new electronics and troller to your existing wires. The new stuff needs more power and has more powerful computer chips, so the entire power system has to be able to support that. If you have a newer boat, it might be wired okay for everything – but check anyway. If it's not newer, you probably don't have the right wiring.
If you don't have enough full (ish) power supply to your electronics for however long you fish, your graphs will start to not read as well/crisply, and your trolling motor might start to get buggy.
From what I've seen, seems like 6ga and 8ga is the way to go. BUT I am not an expert!
Word is that harnesses like SonarPros and Sea Clear Power are good.
I got my battery-to-battery cables from BatteryCablesUSA. Cheap, fast and good.
5. Get EXPERT help if you can
Find folks who know what they're talking about (from experience) and can help. Shout out to MI electronics legend TimmE who helped me a ton by phone – thanks much man! 💪
Maybe it's a bud, maybe it's an actual shop that does this stuff or a boat dealer, maybe it's someone else. I think the best thing is to take it to a shop that rigs boats – if you have one nearby that you hear good things about and you can afford it.
Second-best is getting someone on the phone to walk you through this stuff. If you're confident and experienced yourself with this stuff, you can probably apply the knowledge you have to this new electronics setup world. If you want to DIY it outta thin air, you have more stones than I do!
Some thoughts on units and trollers in a future Blaster.
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